Saturday 10/21/2017 - Oriental NC Layover

I realized when I talked to Joan on the phone last night that we had almost 3 weeks to get to Myrtle Beach and not 2.  Given we have been gone two weeks and are almost 2/3 of the way there means we have time to "kill".  After spending most of the day in Oriental yesterday - and loving it - we decided to stay another day.  After all, the docks are free, there is a great coffee shop right across the street and, right now they are playing live music at the marina right next door (the volume is perfect although the music is a little twangy for my taste).

After getting coffee at the Bean at 6:45 am this morning, I ran into a really nice guy that I had met at the Dismal Swamp Visitors Center 5 years ago.  He has upgraded to a trawler and goes from New Hampshire to Florida every year.  He always stops at Oriental for a month.

At around 9am, we went for a walk to the top of the bridge that crosses Greens Creek to the South side of town. Some great views!

After we returned from the walk, we stopped a half block from the boat at the provision store around 11am. They have free bikes for visiting sailors so we checked out a couple and rode around town for 3 hours.  That included lunch at the Silos restaurant north of town and a quick stop at the West Marine store. 

There are many beautiful homes in Oriental and I took photos and videos of lots of them.  I'll try and get some posted on You Tube soon.

We spent the rest of the day doing light boat work and relaxing.   I'm starting to feel like I'm on  vacation!

Harbor entrance and tour

Oriental from the bridge over Greens Creek.  Neuse River is on the right.

Friday 10/202017 - Goose Creek to Oriental

What a great day!  We were up at around 6am and on our way at 7.  We motored for about 5 miles through two cuts that empty into the Bay River (a tributary of the Neuse River).  We sailed the last 2 or 3 miles to the Neuse then sailed up the Neuse for about 3 miles until the wind shifted to where it was on our nose. With winds of only 4 to 8 knots, the sailing wasn't fast so turning the motor back on and dropping the sails was almost a welcome change.  We pulled into Oriental at about noon.  It's good that we did because we had our pick of the free docks.  We went to the first (long) dock on the South side of the harbor.  It's a very nice dock and big enough for two boats on each side.   It has a free pump out and very nice public bathrooms.  There are no showers but for $5, we were able to use the showers at the Oriental Marina right next door. 

We had a great lunch at the restaurant on the grounds of the marina and were able to keep an eye on True Blue while we ate lunch.  We met a local outside the restaurant who works as a sail maker at the local Doyle loft.  He gave us some good tips on things to see and do in town.  We went for a walk with the Red Rooster as our destination but it turned out being too far to walk to.   We returned to the boat and hung out for a while, used the pump out, and chatted with our neighbors on the trawler next to us (who live in Ft. Pierce FL).  I told them I was planning on leaving the boat at Vero Beach City Marina over the holidays and they recommended I consider Causeway Cove Marina in Ft. Pierce.  It is a new marina that has moorings and is not yet in any of the chart books.

We went for a late walk down the waterfront and saw a number of beautiful homes - some on the back side of the water and some on the front side.  On our way back, we stopped to talk to one of the local home owners who was outside watering her flowers.  Her family has lived in Oriental for several hundred years.  She lived and worked in Fairfax VA for many years but came back and moved into the home her parents left when they died several years ago.  She is very active in town events and a real promoter of Oriental. 

We returned to the boat as the sun was going down and then made the short walk to the Bean for ice cream.  I'm getting pretty concerned that Phil may gain several pounds on the trip - I know he'll blame every pound on me.

Tomorrow it's on to Beaufort and from a look at the weather, it looks like we will be going offshore from there to Masonboro.

Goose Creek shortly after "First Light"

True Blue

                                                                       
   The Bean at the end of the harbor                                                          

Thursday  10/19/2017 - Pungo River to Goose River

Today was a somewhat relaxing day.  We only travelled about 30 miles.  We were up at 5:30am but didn't leave the anchorage until around 7:30am.  We ate oatmeal for breakfast for the first time on the trip.  We have been out of milk for 3 days now and are using a milk substitute.  We decided to motor sail to Bellhaven - a small town in the northwest corner of the Pungo River.  It is a nice little town but it seems to be barely surviving.  We had some trouble figuring out the marinas and town docks.  We decided to go to the Bellhaven Marina for fuel, a pump out and water.  When we finally reached them on the radio we were told we needed to go to the new River Farm Marina just inside the breakwater.  We weren't sure why but it worked out fine.  We got fuel and water and were on our way to find the pump out.  We were told by Henry at  River Farm Marina that we could go to Wynn's Gut town dock for 4 hours or less at no cost.  Apparently the only pump out in town is there and the town government maintains the pump out.  You get tokens at various places in town to get tokens for the pump out.  It was slow but worked.  We walked into town and were met almost immediately by Margerie.  She welcomed us and asked if we needed any directions or help.  We were primarily looking for milk and a token and instructions for the pump out.  She offered to drive us to the Food Lion about a mile down the road.  While talking to her on the street corner, her husband Don came out of the building next to where we were standing.  They were both VERY nice.  We went into the hardware store next door and got a token for $5.  When we went back the boat, Don had been there and found that the pump out was about 200 feet back out along the docks and the hose was in a dock box.   Don helped us move the boat and get the pump out working. 

We left the boat tied up at the pump out and went back into town for lunch.  Don and Margie had recommended the Fish Hook Restaurant so that is where we went.  It was great!   For $8, we got the brunch buffet.  Our stomachs ached the rest of the day from over eating.  It was a busy place. 

After eating, we returned to the boat and left.  We motored and sailed off the 10 miles out of the Pungo and the 5 miles across the Pamlico.  We pulled into Goose Creek fairly early (around 5pm), had some cocktails and chips, took showers , and that was it for the night.  It was a very nice and warm day.  The winds were S at 5 to 8.  It was a really nice day.

Wednesday 10/18/2017 - North River to Pungo River

Yes, in one long day, we crossed the Albemarle Sound, went down the length of the Alligator River, and motored through the Albemarle - Pungo Canal to just inside the Pungo River.  What made it possible was 1.  Getting up at 5:30am and being underway just before 7, 2.  A 15 knot NNE wind that let us cross the Albemarle sound in just 2.5 hours, 3.  A perfectly timed opening of the Alligator River Swing Bridge.  Our plan had been to anchor just before the north entrance of the A-P Canal opening but since it was only 2:30pm, we decided to go on.  This meant getting to an anchorage at around 6:30 but I like the anchorages at the West end better, so we went ahead.  As it turned out, we anchored just as the sun was setting, about 6:45pm.  Of course, anchoring late meant showering in near darkness.  Fortunately, the wind had dropped to about 5 knots so the 60 degree temperature made it bearable. 

The sail across the Albemarle was in near perfect conditions.  We started out sailing wing on wing and then jibed over for a better angle into the cut into the Alligator River.  The waves were fairly rolly and confused but it was only 1 to 2 feet in height so it was better than days we had had on the Chesapeake.  The pass through the cut was fairly easy even through the chop was coming straight through.  We never saw under 8 or 9 feet of water.  Just after we passed through the cut (about 2 miles above the Alligator River Swing Bridge), we were passed by a very large (80 to 100') power boat that nicely asked for an opening.  When he called for an opening, the bridge tender told him he would have to be patient and wait for the troller that had already been waiting for 10 or 15 minutes, us, and the 50' sailboat coming up behind us.  I had the mainsail up and had planned to take it down to go through the bridge but given the timing, I asked the bridge tender (on channel 13) if they require sails to be down and he responded that it was my choice.  So I left it up (it has had a single reef since we left Middle River). 

The sail down the Alligator was very nice.  We were on a port tack very broad reach most of the way except for about 20 minutes that we were wing on wing and another 30 minute period when the wind died to around 5 knots and we motored.  In the Southern half of the River, we observed military F18s flying very low from West to East.   There must have been a total of about 14 or 16 planes and they always came in twos.  Three or 4 minutes later, another pair would fly by. Just after passing us, they would start a steep climb before going out of sight.  They seemed to be going full speed but it may have only appeared that way since they were so close to us.  As we reached the bottom of the Alligator, they all came back from East to West and we soon got tired (an annoyed) of the thundering noise.  It only lasted 15 or 20 minutes though. 

The Eastern section of the A-P Canal is a little unattractive with lots of stumps lining the shore.  But, to me, the Western half is very pretty.  It has almost no stumps lining the shores.  It is lined with tall evergreens on the South side and with deciduous trees on the North side.  Many areas of the shoreline are lined with tall grasses that sway in the breezes.  There are two 65' bridges that are easy to navigate and there are several open areas where there are no trees for a mile or so where the shores are lined by marshes with pretty grasses.

Crossing the Albemarle Sound

Alligator - Pungo River Canal

Tuesday 10/17/2017 - Lay over in North River

My dearest friend, whose name I swore to keep a secret, suggested that I change my writing style (if I can call it that) to something that non sailors might more easily understand.  I promised I'd try so here goes!

Our hope was to cross the infamous Albemarle Sound today.  The forecast was for North 15 to 20 subsiding to 10 to 15 after 11am. Unfortunately, it has blown 20 to 25+ all day so here we sit.  As the wind strength would cycle, it would go from being quiet inside to having to listen to a howling noise and having the boat list to 10 degrees - just from wind pressure on the mast and rigging.  On the bright side, it was a nice sunny day with low humidity.  We took advantage of this to do some inside boat cleaning, engine checks, hanging wet clothes etc. out to dry etc.  We also had a nice lunch (salad with grilled chicken, cheese, etc.).  You might think showering outside in 20 knot winds and 60 degree temperatures might be uncomfortable but full sun and a dodger really helps.  Also, not having showered yesterday was a big encouragement.

Hopefully the conditions tomorrow will be what is forecasted - around 10 to 15.  Our plan is to make the 20 miles across the Albemarle and the 25 miles down the Alligator River.  The wind should be behind us and the temperatures a little warmer - with bright sunshine!  I think it will be spaghetti for dinner tonight.  Tomorrow morning we won't be sleeping in till 6:30 like we did this morning.

Monday 10/16/2017

We were up at 5:45 for the 7am bridge opening.  Between the boats leaving from where we were docked and the ones coming through the 7am lock opening, we had a cluster of about 10 boats - ranging in size from my 31 to a 75 to 80' power boat.  We all rushed south, only to realize that the Centerville Swing bridge did not open until 8:30.  The owner of a Pearson 34 was the first to the bridge and tied up along a seawall just before the bridge.  When we came up, he invited us to raft along side to wait for the opening.   We had an interesting talk after establishing that we were both Navy Nucs.  We hoped to make it to a creek near where the North River dumps into the Albamarle Sound. 

About 1/2 mile before the North Landing swing bridge, with the boats all backed up again, I ran aground close to the center of the channel and almost in line with where other deeper draft boats had been .  I hit a tree stump and was able to back off.  However, I was able to spin off in forward and finally got off by heading back north.  Of course, I hit a second time even harder but that time didn't get stuck.   The rest of the day was uneventful except for the NNE winds at 15 to 20 and the rain that came at about 3pm.  The good news was that we had current with us mot of day and were still able to get into our anchorage by 4pm.  It stopped raining just long enough to let us get the anchor down.  Once inside, it started pouring again.  

Sunday 10/15/2017 - Portsmouth to Great Bridge VA

After filling the water tanks and bottles, disposing of trash and, in general, getting the boat ready to move on, we walked into town.  I liked the town but it was "dead" on a Sunday morning.  The first restaurant opened at 10 and we were ready go in.  We had a nice breakfast off their brunch menu. The people in the town were very friendly. I had wanted to go to the Maritime Museum but it was closed for renovations.  There was a very attactrive nautical antique shop but it was closed for the day.  On the way back to the boat, we stopped along the docks to admire some of the schooners that were there.   It turned out that the Great Schnooner Race had just finished at 1am that morning when the schooner Virgina crossed the finish line near Portsmouth.  The race (starting at the Bay Bridge off Annapolis) had started at 1:30pm the afternoon before.  So what took us 6 days took the schooners (at least the winner Virginia) just under 12 hours.  We saw Brilliance (almost identical to the Woodwinds) come in and Virginia and the Pride of Baltimore were already docked.  So, at around 1pm, we were out of things to do and decided to head out.  We set out to make it to the Great Bridge Lock before 4pm but when we got to the Glimmerton lift bridge, we found around 15 large sail and power boats anchored out waiting for the bridge to open.  Those closest to the bridge may have been there all day.  The problem with anchoring was that the Elizebeth River is fairly deep in that area.  About 45 minutes after we anchored, they announced over the VHF that they would be opening shortly and the mad rush began to pull up anchors and get through the bridge before they had some excuse to close it again.  So, the procession began - the 15 or so in front of us and the 10 or so behind.   Fortunately, most cruisers kept their places in line and didn't try moving to the front of the line.  Before getting to Great Bridge, there was one other bridge delay and then there was a 40 minute delay for the lock to open.  We entered and stayed to starboard which has rubber bumpers.  The lock only raises the water 2 or 3 feet. After leaving the lock to tied up to the free dock between the lock and the Breat Bridge Bridge.  We did a little socializing with other cruisers and then walked into town for dinner at Panera and a trip to the grocery store.  We got back to the boat around 9pm and showered off the back of the boat.  It was a long day and I didn't get to bed till after midnight.