Wednesday February 28, 2018 - Layover in Rock Sound

The days just seem to be getting better.  My goal for the day was to have lunch at Rosie's Northside Restaurant.  I was to the only one she was having for lunch but it turned out that three more people showed up.  Her restaurant/cottages/home is about 4 miles east of Rock Sound.  So I made arrangements with Brad at Dingles gas station to have Rosie pick me up at noon.  Rosie is somewhat of a legend in the area.  While I was waiting for her to pick me up, I had a great conversation with Mr. Brown (a customer at Dingles).  It didn't take long into the conversation for him to bring up his son Chris Brown.  Chris was in 5 consecutive summer olympics in track and field.  It was somewhere in Europe that he won the Gold metal for the Bahamas.  There are now streets named after him in Eleuthera.  Can you imagine the pride someone like Mr. Brown must have.  After we finished talking, he invited me to come to his home (about 10 miles south of here) to see his son's trophies.

Rosie had stopped by just before I got to the gas station and I missed her by about a minute.  She had to go to the government building to transfer the title of her car from her daughter (and attorney in Switzerland) to herself.  She picked me up on the way back.  This is one amazing woman.  Her husband died 18 years ago and she has been running a business of renting out 6 beach front cottages and a restaurant - by herself.  Three others showed up for lunch and she was telling the 4 of us how she had broken her wrist a few years before.  When I told her the trouble Joan had when she did the same thing, Rosie said she hung the laundry on the line using her good hand and her TEETH.  Of course, she showed me her photo albums with her husband and kids and her photo with Nelson Mandela.  She sat and talked to the 4 of us while we ate lunch (grouper smothered in onions and okra, rice and peas, plantains, and coleslaw).

Patty offered to give me a ride back, along with her two Canadian guests.  She dropped me off at Halls so I could pick up some groceries (best grocery store I've seen yet and good prices - for the Bahamas).  I walked the mile back to the boat.

Dingles - the center of the universe and pick up location for my ride to Rosie's

Rosie has been around! 

Rosie and me

Rosies

This is a MUST anytime you are in Eleuthera!

Tuesday February 27, 2018 - Rock Sound Layover

Things are definitely slowing down (in addition to the wind).  I spent the morning piddling around the boat.  When I do a passage like I did yesterday, I do a lot to prepare the boat for rough weather/seas.  I hope it's overkill but it's nice to only have to worry about the things I have no control over.  I do have control over the dinghy, the loosely tied solar panels on the bimini, etc..  So this morning, I undid all the things I did yesterday morning.  We had a fair amount of dew this morning so I wiped some of that up (to remove the salt).

At around 10am, my new friend Mike dinghied by as he was going to shore for fuel.  His wife Lisa was out for a bike ride to the East side of the island.  Mike and I agreed we were going to have lunch together at Sammy's.  He later called Lisa and she met us there.  My conch burger and yellow label Guinness was great.  They didn't open for lunch until 11:45 but they fed us early because Mike and Lisa had to be at Customs at around 1pm to renew their passports.  It's great how accommodating people here in the Bahamas can be.

After lunch, I dinghied in with a couple water jugs and got water to rinse off the boat.  I do my best to keep from tracking salt into the boat but it makes it hard when it's all over the decks. 

What happened to the rest of the afternoon?  I'm not really sure.  I'm on vacation in the Bahamas!

Monday February 26, 2018 - Warderick Wells Exumas to Rock Sound Eleuthera

The forecast for crossing the 30+ mile Exuma Sound was about as good as I thought it would ever be - 10 to 15 knot winds from the SE.  It would be a reach, on one long starboard tack with the perfect winds for True Blue.  I had seen the Sound from BoBo Hill the afternoon before and it didn't look bad - and the winds were supposed to drop a little over night. 

I was up early and dropped the mooring at about 8:40am.  It took about 30 minutes to motor out of the Warderick Wells North anchorage and put up the main sail.  I debated whether to leave the double reef in the main, go to a single reef, or go with no reefs.  In the Chesapeake, I wouldn't even consider reefing the main in 10 to 15 knot winds.  But this wasn't the Chesapeake so I left the double reef in.  When I went out through the cut, into the sound, I was sure glad I did.  The wind was 15 to 20 and the waves were 3 to 4 feet.  For the first 2 to 3 hours, I was doing 6.5 to 7 knots, consistently.  I was also getting a little wet.  The first 20 miles was all hand steering (no autopilot except for a minute here or there).  I got drenched a couple times by waves that I didn't see coming.  The last 10 miles (to Cape Eleuthera - the southwest tip of the island) was much better.  The wind dropped to around 10 and I ended up using the full genoa.  Once I rounded the Cape, the area is very shoaly.  I removed both reefs from the main and then tacked, head to wind up another 15 miles to Rock Sound.  The last 15 miles was some of the most enjoyable sailing I've ever done.  I love beating in calm seas and 10 knot winds - and that's just what I had. 

My new friends Mike and Lisa had been motor sailing the entire time.  They had started behind me and finally passed me just before coming into Rock Sound.  They complained too about how rough it was and they have a Morgan 46 ketch. 

I got in around 5pm, showered, ate, and crashed.

Rock Sound is both a body of water and a settlement (town).  It's the biggest town I've been in since I left the US.  I'd guess the population is between 500 and 1000. 

Sunday February 25, 2018 - Layover at Exuma Land and Sea Park

I'm not sure why but it was a little rough at times last night. I don't believe it rained (much) but there must have been a couple squalls pass nearby.  In any event, it's a beautiful morning - bright sunshine and winds east around 15 (not howling). 

Just after I wrote the last paragraph, a squall came through and gave us just enough rain to give True Blue a small rinse.  As it was passing through, I looked out the companionway and saw a great rainbow.  I spent about an hour at the park office wandering around with my phone trying to get a connection.  I did get it to connect long enough to download some updated GRIB (weather files) but I wasn't able to get a good enough connection to send the emails I had typed on my laptop.  Guess they will have to wait till tomorrow when I get to Eleuthera. 

I went for a very (for me) long walk around the park.  Besides being about 5 miles, about 2/3 of it is what they call honeycomb.  It is very tretcherous to walk on - many large and small holes, very sharp peaks that you can't avoid.  I'm surprised my shoes held up.

When I got back from my  hike, I dinghied over to my new friends Mike and Lisa on their Morgan 46 "Sheet Music".   I wonder if one of them is a musician. They saw Baltimore on the back of True Blue and stopped for a chat (earlier in the day). They are from Havre de Grace MD.  And, like me, they are leaving in the morning for Rock Sound.  They will only be there for a couple days and then they are  going North to Governor's Harbour and Hatchet Bay.  I'll be going there too but not as quickly as them since Robert doesn't fly into Gov. Harbour until March 8th. 

So, I came back to the boat, left my hiking gear, got my snorkeling gear and dinghied about a quarter mile to an area where they have installed two dinghy moorings - just for snorkeling.  From above the surface, I wasn't really expecting much since it was a little deep and in an open area.  When I was in my 20s, I lived in San Diego for almost 2 years and in Hawaii for almost 3 years so I've done a lot of snorkeling.  But when I jumped in and cleared my mask, I was shocked at how beautiful it was.  There was LOTS of very unusual corals that I had never seen before.  I think the word pristine best describes it.  I think that was simply because it is an underwater park where they don't allow anything to be removed from the bottom. Also, the fact that they do not allow anchoring.  There were 2 or 3 varieties of a beautiful purple coral. Some was fan coral and some were just long tentacles.  There were not a lot of fish but I must have seen about 20 different varieties with lots of yellows and purples.  I was only in the water for 30 minutes but I was soooo glad I went in. 

True Blue




Exuma Land and Sea Park

Saturday February 24, 2018 - Big Majors Spot to Warderick Wells

Today was a great day.  I finally made it to my destination in the Exumas - Warderick Wells Exuma Land and Sea Park.  I had wanted to stop her when I helped my friend Captain Phil bring his boat up from St. Thomas 4 years ago.  This was going to be my destination going south in the Exumas on this trip but I got over here so fast, I had plenty of time so I decided I'd pass it by and continue going south.  I figured I'd stop here on my way back north and use Warderick Wells as a jumping off point for going to Eleuthera. It has all worked out perfectly.

I left Big Majors early this morning and sailed the 20 miles north. The wind was blowing 15 to 25 but it was a broad reach most of the way so it went pretty quick (it helps to be doing over 6.5 to 7 knots - with a double reefed main and reefed genoa).  I got here at 11.  I had called yesterday and requested a mooring near the park headquarters and they honored my request and put me on the second ball out.  It was perfect.  I went for a two hour hike and before I knew it, it was time for the Saturday cruisers pot luck get together on the beach.  It was so close, I rowed the dinghy back to the boat. I met several other cruisers and ate lots of great finger food.  As soon as the sun set, everyone made a mad dash for their boats. 

Video - Exuma Land and Sea Park

Cherry ran the Land and Sea Park Office

Friday February 23, 2018 - Layover at Big Majors Spot

I had planned on sailing 20 miles north today to the Exuma Land and Sea Park.  But the forecast was for lots of wind so I decide to put it off a day.  I kind of wish now that I had gone because the wind wasn't that strong today and it's supposed to be strong tomorrow.  In any event, I'm going.   Starting next Tuesday, the wind is forecasted to disappear so I want to cross from the Exumas to Eleuthera on Monday.  That gives me just two days in Exuma Park. 

The starter switch for the engine has been acting up again so today I did some troubleshooting and ended up ordering a new switch.  My friend Robert is coming down on 3/8 and he will bring the new switch with him. 

I'll be out of cell range till I get to Eleuthera so I'll catch up then. 

Thursday February 22, 2018 - Big Majors Spot to Staniel Cay

It would seem hard to believe that motoring 2 or 3 miles, going to the grocery store, getting gas, and going for a swim could be exhausting but that's what I did today and I'm exhausted.  I'll expound. First, I left the anchorage where I've been for 3 days just before 7am.  I got back to an anchorage nearby at around 4pm.  In between, I:

• 1.      Went for a great swim at Thunderball Grotto (remember the James Bond movie Thunderball?).  There were LOTS of friendly and colorful fish. I wish I had an underwater camera. 
• 2.      When I got back to the boat, a nice couple from Ottawa, who have a Pearson 36, stopped by on their way to the Yacht Club.  We hit it off right away and ended up having lunch together.  They had been there a few days so knew their way around.
• 3.      Had a great juicy hamburger, fries, and a beer at the Yacht Club restaurant - just the kind of bar, restaurant I like.
• 4.      Filled 3 mini jerry cans with water.
• 5.      Walked with Jeff and Brenda to the grocery store (where I realized I only had brought about half the money I should have).
• 6.      Back to the  boat to replenish the kitty and leave the water on the boat.
• 7.      Back to shore to fill up the diesel jerry can.
• 8.      Back to the store for a few cold items.

9.      When I got back to the boat, I heard my name being called, looked over about 200 feet off my stern and there was Phillip and Katy on Tuesday.  I dinghied over for a short visit.  His mother is flying into Staniel tomorrow and will be with them for several days.  It's likely I won't see them again since they are staying in this area and I'm heading north soon.  Still, it's funny that this is the 5th or 6th time I've run into them.

10.  Once I got things put reasonably away, I pulled up the anchor and headed back to Big Majors.  It is much more protected here and there is almost no current. 

It IS pretty amazing how much those things can take out of you.  But it was all fun. What a great day!!

One of the things I've thought about and keep meaning to mention is how comfortable the temperatures are here.  It's been windy every day and the temperatures are almost always between 79 and 82.  That might seem warm, and at times it is but it's easy to cool off.  All you have to do is jump in the water or just stand out in the wind.  True Blue has good ventilation so it is pretty easy to keep comfortable inside the boat.  Of course, it's important to not over exert yourself.

Brenda and Jeff, S/V Seldom Silent (Pearson 36-2)

Wednesday February 21, 2018 - Big Majors Layover

Not a lot to report today because there wasn't a lot going on.  My boat work for the day was to replace the top leech tell tale on the mainsail.  It will be so nice to again know whether I have the correct amount of twist in the mail. 

Today, I began work on a blog I've been wanting to do for some time.  I have a Garmin chart plotter and I have a companion program on my laptop called Homeport.  It uses the same charts that are on the chart plotter but has lots of tools for planning etc.  I use it a fair amount and have found a few aspects to be somewhat confusing.  My plan is to make 4 or 5 videos showing what I know about it and to show the features I have found to be most valuable.  I read somewhere a while back that the key to a good YouTube channel is to find a niche.  This might be just what my channel needs to go viral!  Actually, it's fun to do, I learn more about the product and how to make videos and it may actually help some other sailor that has used the product.  Garmin has a very similar product called BaseCamp that is for land (hiking and offroad) devices and a guy by the name of Joby Byrne made several excellent videos explaining the use of that product.  My videos will be similar but for the marine version.  Here is a link to what he has done: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTMK2KBJk45Fyv4EEkeTvKg

So today, I wrote the script for 4 of the videos and played around with my webcam and editing software.  I also learned how to do a video recording of what's going on with my laptop screen. 

Almost every day since I've been here (at Big Majors), there has been one or more late afternoon squals.  They often come out of no where (it's hard to see far to the east because of the bluffs), give a little sprinkle, and fly by. Within 3 or 4 minutes the sun is out again.  But this evening, around 5, we got a downpour that lasted almost an hour.  I wished I had rigged some sort of rain catching device.  I could use the water.  Anyway, the boat got a really good fresh water rinse that it needed.

Tuesday, February 20, 2018 - Layover at Big Majors

Have you ever really listened to roosters crow in the morning?  It seems funny how people make a big deal over the calls that birds of nature make.  But roosters certainly have a loud and elaborate call.  I'm not sure what it about it that I like - maybe they, like me" are early risers and are proud of it. 

There is hardly a cloud in the sky this morning. It's beautiful out.  I'm currently running the generator so I'm inside with things closed up (except for fresh air coming in through the forward hatch).  My plan is to visit the pig beach this morning.  Hopefully they will be frisky and welcoming. 

I dinghied over to Pig Beach this morning.  My video will follow in a day or two (when I get wifi).  I enjoyed the pigs and, until they realized they had gotten all they were getting from me, they seemed to enjoy me.  I was only there for 20 minutes.  That's one of those things you make a "day" of when you are retired.  On my way back to the boat, I ran out of gas.  Fortunately, I had my gas can with me. I think I got about quart in the tank and about 1/2 quart in the water.  I really do need to come up with a better system fill the tank.  This was the second time this morning that I had run out of gas.  The first was in the middle of making pancakes.  The propane tank ran out just after putting my last pancake in the skillet.  I have a two gallon propane tank but I left it at home because it is way out of date and I was afraid I might have trouble getting it filled.  So I removed it and have been using the one pound Coleman camping containers.  They last a little over a week.  I think I have plenty to get me back to Florida but I'm pretty sure they will be available in Marsh Harbour if I need some.  So, that last pancake was a little tough.

I cleaned out the lazarette this afternoon.  I did this to see if there was any evidence of any more cock roaches.  Happily, the one I found 3 weeks ago must have been a "Lone Ranger". 

Here is a link to the Sailing Britican Youtube channel.  Their pig video is much better than mine.
https://youtu.be/7hrUW6Ddxms?t=999

Who said these pigs are aggressive?

I think she is going to miss me.

Monday, February 19, 2018 - Layover at Big Majors Cay (Staniel, Exumas)

One of the things that's making my trip to the Bahamas more enjoyable is that I feel like my learning curve is leveling out.  The number of "unknowns" is getting smaller all the time.  For example:

1.      I'm getting to be more comfortable with navigating the shallow areas of the western side of the Exumas,

2.      Getting and feeling I can rely on weather forecasts

3.      The routine of anchoring

4.      Communications (voice and data)

5.      The boat and boat systems.  Things are working well - no breakdowns recently and I'm getting to know what to expect (water, power usage etc.).  I'm now at the "fine tuning" stage.

Today was an outside boat work day.  I had a number of deck fittings that still had the butyl tape that had ozzed out from when I bedded them 2 years ago.  I cleaned all those off and they look so much better.  I lubricated the zippers I had not done a couple weeks ago. 

As forecasted, the wind blew all day.  I'm at anchor behind a long shorline of fairly tall (40 to 50 foot) bluffs.  When wind is obstructed by land, it makes it much more variable in strength. In stead of getting a steady 20 knots, you will get 10 or 15 seconds of 10 knots followed by 10 to 15 seconds of 25 knots.  It's actually nice to get some periodic breaks in the noise caused by the rigging. 

The other day, I was on the phone with Bruce and he asked me how many boats were in the Black Point Anchorage (this is a huge anchorage that will hold 50 boats, easily). I counted and told him 10.  He was surprised since the number is usually much larger.  The next morning, at around 10 am, there were only 4.  Now, I know why the numbers were so low.  The boats are all up here at Big Majors.  Big Majors is a pretty large cay (maybe a mile N-S and 3/4 mile E-W).  Like Black Point, it has a very large anchorage (on the West side).  The pig beach is near the south end and there are two smaller beaches at the north end.  Off all three beaches and in between, there must be 50 boats.  About 3/4 are trawlers or large motor yachts.  The remainder of them are sailboats.  When I first arrived, I anchored off Pirate's Beach - the south most north beach.  I realized quickly that I was near a number of "party boats" and moved south a little.  Where I am now is much better.  Also, as I look around, I'm surrounded by Canadian boats - every single one. So much for demographics.

We had some (for me) welcome rain yesterday afternoon and evening.  Nothing major - just 3 or 4 squalls that came through over a 2 o3 hour period that did a nice job of washing some of the salt off the boat. 

Sunday, February 18, 2018 - Black Point to Big Majors

My trip south (in the Exumas and in the Bahamas) has come to an end.  I'm heading north now and it feels kind of good because I will be meeting up with my friend Robert on March 8th and my Son and his family on March 27th.  So I have fun things to look forward to and then I'll be heading for home.  I'm here because the wind is supposed to pick up this afternoon and evening and blow (20 to 30) from the east for the next 2 or 3 days.  Big Majors is a pretty protected spot from east winds.  Before I leave, I'll be going to Staniel Cay for some provisions and to check out Thunderball Grotto (a well know swimming/cave type area that was made famous in a James Bond movie).  Then I'll be on my way north about 20 miles for 2 or 3 days at Warderick Wells.

Big Majors is known for its pigs on the beach.  Not too many cruisers go by here without making a pig stop.  They eat out of your hands, love fresh water, and will even roll over and let you scratch their bellies.  I'll be sure and take some photos.

My Bahama's phone Combo Plan ran out yesterday so last evening, I spent some time signing up for the "slim and trim" plan.  I suspect the Combo plan is designed to get you accustomed to using lots of data, calls, texting, etc. so you feel the need to continue after the two weeks when it runs out.  They don't know Ron Harbin - I can pinch data like some people pinch pennyies.  If you notice a cut back in videos, you will know why.

Yesterday, at the suggestion of Bruce, I made a day sail to the south end of Great Guana Cay to a place called Oven Rock.  Take a look at the photos below and you will see how it got it's name.  Just up the beach and to the east about 1/4 mile is a very rugged hill. Near the top is a cave that is awesome.  THANKS Bruce!  Unfortunately, all three of my camera batteries were dead so I was stuck using my phone for a few photos.  Since I had left my dinghy on the beach with a rising tide, I hustled back.  Of course, the tide had continued to go down so I had to get it back to the water with care.  I had a really nice sail both down and back so it was a really nice adventure. 

I guess I'm changing over time because I'm getting lazy.  As long as the wind is not on the nose and I don't have more than 10 miles to go, I use the genoa alone.  The time to remove the main sail cover and do everything related to that just doesn't seem justified for a 2 hour sail.  But I AM doing a lot of sailing (especially compared to those around me). 

About two weeks ago, I began having trouble with my two new solar panels (or the controller, etc.).  It was windy and I was traveling so I took them down.  It's been really nice to have the generator to rely on for those days where I'm sitting or sailing.  But when I got here, I decided to give them another try and, for some odd reason, they are doing great. Perhaps they just needed a break?  It IS a really bright sunny day and it's noon.  I expect to be able to rely on them more and more as the days get longer and the sun gets higher. 

This afternoon I did good job of cleaning the True Blue's bottom.  It had developed a new (to me) slime/scale over most of the bottom that was not as easy to scrub off as the previous green slime that I'm used to.  I was a little exhausted after an hour so I took a break for an hour.  For the second half of the job, I put on my shorty wet suit and weight belt.  The wet suit makes you more buoyant so the weight belt balances that out.  I think this is the cleanest I've ever gotten the bottom - all the way down to the underside of the wing keel.  I'm getting a few small barnacles on the bottom paint which concerns me a little since the paint needs to last until November. 

Could this be the trail marker?

Which way would YOU go?

Who/what could be lurking under that water??

Saturday February 17, 2018  Black Point to South Great Guana Cay

I've been working feverishly since 6:30am to process and post videos since my Bahamas phone "combo plan" runs out today.  I'm "proud" to say I've used over 7 gb of data in the last 2 weeks.  Don't plan on a lot of videos after today.  It's been fun but it does take a lot of time so my next phase is to spend more time enjoying.  Monday is supposed to bring a couple days of east wind (20 to 30).  My plan is to go to the south end of Great Guana today and then head back north to the Staniel Cay area until later next week when I'll return to the Exuma Land and Sea Park at Warderick Wells.

I know I make lots of apologies for the quality of my videos but if you take a look at the video below, you will understand why.  This Swedish couple produce a youtube video about once a week and this is their latest. The channel is RAN Sailing (RAN pronounced Ron - but that's not why they are my favorite channel).  Their names are Juan and Malin and I've been watching their videos for a little over a year.  Here is what I like about their videos:

1.      Sound is great.  They use external mics to avoid wind noise.  They also do some voice overs during the editing process.

2.      Video quality is fantastic - they have some expensive cameras with stabalization, good optics, etc.

3.      They incorporate great music at the right time and reduce the volume of the video.

4.      They have a drone for great fly overs.

5.      They have a Go Pro for nice underwater shots

6.      They do a great job combine shore trips and sharing lots of the local culture.

7.      They do a great job of showing many aspects of cruising

8.      Their English is great.  She also speaks French and Spanish (besides Sweedish).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msb9OfU2uRc&feature=em-uploademail

Friday February 16, 2018 - Layover at Black Point

I had big plans for today.  I was going into town to get my laundry started and, while it was going, I was going to go to Lorraine's for breakfast.  I got the laundry going OK (forgot my soap - again) but that's were "island time" came into play. I went to Lorraine's and the door was locked.  The sign in front said Breakfast, Lunch, and dinner and there was a big "Open" sign.  I asked a woman who was wandering around outside and she said she would get Lorraine.  A couple minutes later, Lorraine came out of her house (behind the restaurant) and told me she would be opening for lunch.  I asked about a time and she said when ever I wanted.   Since I had not had breakfast (and it was now 8:30am), I asked about 11am.  She said that would be fine - she was very nice and I looked forward to lunch.  When I went back at 11:15, the door was unlocked - a good sign. I went in and there were no customers or employees in the dining room.  I waited several minutes and a woman in the kitchen looked out and noticed me standing at the counter.  I asked her if they were open and she said no - maybe noon.  Hmmm.  Guess Lorraine didn't get the word out. 

Of course, by this time, my laundry had washed and dried and had been ready to go for over an hour.  So, I decided to go back to the boat and get something to eat.  Of course, I'll be back.

On my way back to the dock, I noticed that the mail boat was coming in.  This is a pretty major event in Black Point since it is their link to the outside world - for everything including FOOD. 

I also filled up three make shift jerry cans with the free water and disposed of the trash I had been saving for a week and a half. 

The remainder of the day was spent cleaning the boat and doing some more laundry on the boat (rags, etc.). 

Blackpoint School

This be one of the boats that sail in the Annual Black Point Regatta.

Scorpios happy hour - 4 till 6pm

$3.50 for this beer has to be one of
the best buys in the Bahamas!

Black Point's weekly "mail boat"

Thursday February 15, 2018 - Pipe Cay to Great Guana Cay

Last night was one of the best night's sleep I've had in a while.  I actually woke up a couple times wondering why it was so still.  The boat was not rocking and there was no wind in the rigging.  It's now 7am and the wind has picked back up a little but it is forecast to be just 10 to 15 (east) today and even less tomorrow. What a nice break.  I know, and do appreciate, that I have not had any cold fronts come through that bring the "northers".  When they do, all the cruisers have to put the comfort of the west side of the Exumas on hold and run and hide in the limited number of locations between the cays to stay out of the wind and waves.  Fortunately, they usually don't last long as the wind veers around clockwise over a day or two and then everyone can return to their normal west side anchorages.  If I sound like I know something about this, it's only because I've been warned by friends who have been here and also from what I've read.  I'm lucky that there are no cold fronts in the forecast for at least another week.

What a great sail this morning.  The wind was 12 to 18.  It was 6 miles of reaching and then 6 miles very close reaching.  With a double reef in the main, I was doing 5.5 to 6 knots consistently.  I learned today that a double reefed main can be your "friend". 

I'm anchored in a very large bay in the settlement of Black Point on the island of Great Guana Cay.  There must be 20 sailboats anchored here but none as close to shore as me.  I'm about a half mile from the dinghy dock and I'm looking forward to going into town - free water, the best laundry in the Bahamas (per Bruce, and others).  BTW, one thing that has been a growing pain is that it seems like everything is impregnated with salt.  I have rags and towels to wipe my hands and feet on before coming below but all the small carpets on the sole seem salty, towels, everything.  I'm hoping the laundry will help with this growing problem. 

There are a few very local restaurants and I plan on taking advantage of happy hour at one this evening. 

One thing I forgot to mention is that Black Point has a BTC tower and I have 5 bars of 4g and great cell reception.  I better get on using up the remaining 10G of data that I now have just two days to use.  Note that my normal use is less than 1/3G per month.  After the 17th, I'll be on the "pay as you go" plan. 

       This is why I have a sailboat!

Directions?  No problem mahn!

Remember these?  On Great Guana, they keep them
standing for the artistic value.

This is indicative of the level of crime here.

Known widely as the best laundromat in the Bahamas!

Variety store, showers, even a barber.

Wednesday February 14, 2018 - Pipe Cay Layover

I was up at 5 this morning and got a lot done.  I organized about half of the photos I've taken over the last month, edited some videos, posted 2 or 3 videos on youtube, and inserted photos and video links in my recent blogs.  For those who wade through these blogs, I do apologize for not keeping the photos and videos current with the text.  It shouldn't' be too hard to scroll back through the last couple weeks for the photos/videos you have missed.  To me, the videos really give you an idea of what I'm seeing and experiencing.

Several boats departed this morning and by noon, they were replaced by others.  I do like this anchorage.  It is exactly what I think of when I think of cruising in the Bahamas.  The coast line is mostly coral reefs that are 3 to 5 feet above water at mid tide with a few white sand beaches every so often.  I'm in an anchorage about a hundred yards from a man made channel that runs about 400 yards into a large concrete dock.   This was the location of one of the British Decca facilities that closed down in the 1980s.  It was one of several sites where the military had radio/radar installations to help with ship navigation.  It must have been replaced with some better technology (GPS?).  Wikipedia has a good article that I should have taken more time to read - maybe later (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decca_Navigator_System).  In any event, all that's left is ruins. 

Pipe Cay

Tuesday February 13, 2018 - Hawksbill Cay to Pipe Cay

Now I know why sailing close hauled into the wind is called "beating".  Because that's what I got today.  I figured being just 2 or 3 miles off the west side of the Exumas in 20 knot winds couldn't be too difficult.  The wind was more like 20 to 25 with a few gusts to 30.  I had two reefs in the main and the genoa furled to about 30%.  The wind was 25 degrees off my port bow.  The chain makes a turn to the east (when heading south) at the Warderick Wells area and when I approached that area, the seas went from a choppy 2 to 3 feet to a choppy 2 to 4 feet.  A few times I took water over the top of the coach roof. And several times, boat speed dipped under 2 knots (as I'd hit big waves).  And there's the POUNDING that I just love.  I ended up tacking over closer to the windward shore in order to reduce the fetch  and the wave size.  I've been in conditions that rough before but I don't think I have on this trip.  Fortunately, the boat did great - engine ran well when I needed it and I used the sails alone for at least 3/4 of the trip.  Below is a screen print of my track.  The high angle tacks are under sail alone (she doesn't point well when double reefed and in big waves).

I told the cruisers I left at Hawkbill that I'd radio them
with a report on conditions.  My report was "doable".

Monday February 12, 2018 - Norman's Cay to Hawkbill Cay via Shroud Cay

What a great day.  I left the South anchorage at Normans around 9am.  As I left, I stopped by S/V Noodin and bid a farewell to my new friends Ron and Pfebe.  It's likely that I'll run into them again but you never can tell. It was a 6.5 mile sail to the north anchorage on Shroud Cay so I lazily used only the jib. The it was a fairly close to the wind sail but I was able to sail most of the way. Bruce had recommended I dinghy through the creek that goes from the bank (west) side to the sound (east) side.  I was a little reluctant to do it because (like Bruce the first year the cruised the Bahamas) I can hardly stand leaving True Blue out of my sight. I anchored about as close as I could to the creek entrance and began preparing the dinghy for it's most challenging trip to date.  I lowered the motor onto the dinghy and packed everything I might need (including my had held VHF radio - just in case).  The creek was very windy and because it was right at low tide, it was very shallow in spots.  I DO feel like I'm getting the knack of "reading the water" and the creek was good practice.  It was about a mile across and it was slow going.  The motor is doing great - thank you Fred!  When I got to the other side, the view was breathtaking.  Really. Just like something you would see in a magazine.  I took a number of videos that I'll try to get posted. 

I got back to the boat around 1pm, ate a quick bite and was on my way to my anchorage for the night.  It was another 6.5 mile sail to Hawksbill Cay.  The wind had picked up a little (around 18) but the boat did well under jib alone.  I got into the anchorage near the north end of the island at around 3:30pm.  It was a pleasant surprise to see my friends Philip and Katy anchored near the shore - right next to where I was planning to anchor.  This will be the 5th time we have anchored together (starting with No Name Harbor in Florida).  At about 5pm, Phillip and I walked to the top of a hill so he could get and internet signal from Highbourne.  He was able to get it through Katies i-phone. 

I'm looking forward to a full day of sailing tomorrow.  I'm planning on going south to the Compass Cay area.  It will be under full sail with the wind at about 50 degrees.

This morning, I thought I'd do a write-up about my log taking.  If you're not too bored already, I'll share it below.

Logs

Since I began the trip, I've planned to keep some logs and several times, I've seen the need (and started logging) but I've been very inconsistent and bad about following through.  A couple days ago, I lost my BTC data link so I decided to begin listening to the HF weather radio again.  As soon as I do that, I feel the need to log what I'm listening to.  So, why is that?  Here are some reasons to keep logs:

Radio Logs

1.       I have a number of high frequency channels (and other sources too) that provide weather.  Some are voice and some are fax.  I got all these frequencies from various internet websites.  What I have found is that the reception goes from none at all to a 9 on a scale of 1 to 10.  It's usually around 5 (barely discernable). The reception varies with several things:  Frequency, time of day, location, and weather conditions.  Of course, it always helps to raise my single wire antenna with the flag halyard vs. using the collapsable antenna on top of the radio. 

2.      In order to try and make sense of what to use for forecasts, a log can be used to record all these variables.  The goal would be to settle in on the best frequency for the time of day etc.  Of course, I'm always moving but I'm usually in the same general area for a few weeks (central vs. northern Bahamas).

           

So, for a radio log, the information I find useful include:

Date

Time

Station Name

Frequency (most stations have multiple frequencies)

My Location

Signal Strength

Signal to Noise

Comments on station format and timing.  For example, the USCG gives a 50 minute broadcast and covers the Bahamas between about 35 and 50 minutes into the broadcast.  There is no point tuning in for the first 30 minutes since it is all higher North Atlantic latitudes and lower Carribean. 

Weather Log

Having a good weather forecast is essential.  I get forecast information from multiple sources and spend at least an hour almost every day getting it.  When I'm anchored for some time or not traveling very far, I can keep a general sense for what the weather will be doing for the next several days - and logs seem unnecessary.  However, when I'm planning a passage (30 to 100 miles) to another location, it's more important to have a better grasp on the forecast.  So, at those times, I find it useful to write down the forecast for the next few days.  The information I like to record includes:

Date

Time

Name of forecaster

Forecast Area (Abacos, Florida Straits, etc.

Forecast Period (next day or two, coming week, etc.)

Expected conditions ( wind direction and speed, wave height and period, etc.)

Having this information recorded helps me to compare the different sources so I can make some plans on when and whether to go, a course to take, whether to reef sails, etc.   When I'm more nervous about the forecast, I'll record this information from 2 or 3 sources so I can compare what they are forecasting.  Ultimately, I'm the one who deals with the conditions I'm in and I seldom blame the forecast or forecaster - the decisions are MINE, not the forecaster. 

Boat Log

I believe there is actually some legal requirement to keep a boat log.  But, like other logs, I am really bad about keeping one.  I do keep fairly good records for a number of things in various locations however.  For example:

1.      Excel spreadsheets for movement (date, time, location from and to, conditions).

2.      Excel spreadsheet for taking on fuel (date, location, price, tank level before and after, gallons, etc.)

3.      Excel spreadsheet for maintenance history (date, engine hours, description of maintenance, etc.).

4.      Excel spreadsheet of major expenses (purchases for the boat).

In addition to the above, my Garmin chart plotter logs my location about every 5 seconds. This generates an electronic track with lots of little dots showing where I was at each dot.  I'm very disciplined about transferring those tracks from my chart plotter to my laptop once every two or 3 days of travel.  If I don't, it runs out of room and records over the older tracks. These tracks are a fantastic method for looking back at where you have been.  For each point, it records the date and time, your speed and course and the longitude and latitude.  I can also record these tracks using backup (phone and tablet) devices that have charting software loaded.  I sometimes use those devices to monitor my location when I'm anchored in a "blow". 

However, in the back of my mind, I sometimes feel the need to keep a paper log.  That need has seemed the strongest when I make a more significant passage (Florida to Bimini, Bimini to Berry Islands, etc.). So, in those events, I do keep a very informal paper log where I record Date, time, Lat/Lon, boat speed and course, wind speed and direction, wave direction, height and period.  I sure hope no one ever finds these logs because they will be very critical of my log taking. 

Of course, none of the above accounts for the dozens of pages of notes and lists I keep of things I need to do and have done to troubleshoot problems, phone numbers of marina's, etc.